Between Some Rocks and a Hot Place

If I had known that tourists on Crete and other Greek islands were dying in alarming numbers from hiking in the sweltering heat, I probably wouldn’t have embarked on an impromptu climb—solo and without water.

As part of my usual routine since we arrived in Myrtos, I set out for a 3- or 4-mile run along the road that hugs the cliffs overlooking the Libyan Sea. This time, however, I started a bit later than usual, around 8:30 a.m., instead of my usual 7:30 a.m. start time. The sun was already oppressively hot, so I briefly considered bringing a water bottle. I ultimately decided against it, figuring I was only going for a short, slow jog and wouldn’t need it.

As I rounded a corner, I noticed a dirt road going nearly vertical up the side of the cliff. Ever the explorer—and admittedly bored with my usual route—I felt compelled to follow it. As I climbed higher and higher, I realized I was at the base of Kolectos, the iconic conical mountain that serves as a backdrop to Myrtos Beach.

It didn’t look that far or difficult, so I began the ascent. Before long, though, it became clear that it was both farther and steeper than I’d anticipated, and I was starting to feel winded. When I looked back, the village of Myrtos was far below, and not a soul was in sight on the hill. I thought about the water I’d decided to leave behind and began to regret my decision. Still, I wasn’t deterred and pushed onward, making wide serpentine turns to navigate the steep incline.

I did have the presence of mind to stop and send Francesca a WhatsApp message, just in case something happened. She wouldn’t have known I’d be crazy enough to turn my slow, flat jog into a spontaneous climb up Kolectos.

The rest of the hike transpired without much drama. I took some selfies, admired the spectacular views, and eventually summited Kolectos. A cairn at the top marked the highest point. The descent was more challenging than the ascent, but I made it back down safely.

When I returned home, I saw a message from a friend warning me about the heat wave in Greece and its toll on hikers, especially tourists who may be less prepared than locals. According to CNN, a powerful early summer heat wave had pushed temperatures above 104°F, resulting in a series of tourist deaths and disappearances. The article also noted that extreme heat can impair the body in various ways, including causing confusion and affecting decision-making abilities and risk perception.

I don’t think I was ever in any real danger, but that didn’t stop me from milking it as a near-death experience to gain fawning attention from my wife and kids. :P