Isabela Island

May 10, 2025

Isabela Island is the least touristy of the three main islands.  There are fewer paved streets and there is a vibrant local population so you get a better glimpse into Galapagos local culture than you do at either Santa Cruz or San Cristobal.  Right next to our hotel there was the local community center where every night there was something going on, kids playing on the jungle gyms or skate ramps, competitive volleyball tournaments, pick up soccer and basketball games. 

One morning we took a field trip to The Arnaldo Tupiza Tortoise Breeding Center.  Given it's close proximity, we paired it with a bike ride to the Muro de las Lagrimas (aka The Wall of Tears). 

The Tortoise Breeding Center is located just 1.5 km from the main town of Puerto Villamil and is a vital conservation facility dedicated to preserving the Galápagos giant tortoise. Established in 1995 in response to habitat threats from wildfires, lava floes and invasive species, the center focuses on breeding and rearing tortoises from several endangered subspecies native to southern Isabela.

The Wall of Tears is a massive stone wall built by prisoners in the 1940s and '50s, back when this was a penal colony. It’s a haunting, beautiful spot with a heavy history—and a reminder of how even paradise has its dark corners.

It was fun to see and learn about the tortoises in the breeding center and then see them in the wild as we rode along the trail to the Wall. See our separate posts about the Tortoise Breeding Center on Isabela. 

While you can spot incredible wildlife just walking or biking around the Galápagos Islands, sometimes it’s worth splurging on a guided excursion to experience the magic under the water.

We had an unforgettable adventure with Rosedelco Tours on their "Los Túneles Tour" off Isabela Island — one of the top snorkeling experiences in the Galápagos. This full-day trip blends otherworldly volcanic landscapes with up-close encounters with some of the archipelago’s most iconic creatures.

Los Túneles is a stunning geological formation created by ancient lava flows, resulting in natural arches, tunnels, and calm, crystal-clear pools — ideal for snorkeling.

And wow, did it deliver. We saw (and swam with!) white- and black-tipped reef sharks, giant Galápagos sea turtles, spotted eagle rays, seahorses, sea lions, penguins, and the one and only Blue-Footed Boobies — in full mating season flair.

Highly recommend if you're visiting Isabela!  Click here to see my separate post about this amazing tour.

We celebrated Mothers Day on Isabela and in addtion to our own traditions, we also observed the very different way that moms are celebrated in Ecuador and indeed other Latin American countries. 

Mother's day in Ecuador is celebrated as a community with food and music and dancing often at a central location with the party lasting into the wee hours of the morning. Our hotel is right next to the community park and the music was so loud at midnight that I had to go see it for myself.  The revelry that lasted at least until 3am, athough I didn't. 

We've taken a couple of fun excursions whilst on Isabela Island in the Galapagos, including a visit to two active volcanoes - Sierra Negra on horseback and Chico on foot.  Chico last erupted in 1979 and Sierra Negra as recent as 2018. 

Since the Galapagos archegeligo was created entirely by volcanic eruptions it was interesting to see and hear how these land masses were formed, the different kinds of lava that spewed forth and the lava tubes they left behind.  You can tell the age of the volcanoes based on the amount of vegeatation on them and the color of the rock.

On a side note, while it often rains or drizzles on the south side of Sierra Negra (as it did for us) the kids thoroughly enjoyed their wet ride.  They have done a few horseback rides both back home and while traveling, but this was the first one that allowed them to control their own horses - not the typical one horse is trained to follow the one in front.  In fact, our guide often rode way in front with Ryan, while the rest of us jockeyed for position behind.

Here is a video of our journey if you're so inclined.

One of my favorite experiences was one that costs nothing and didn't require a guide.  It's the Concha de Perla lagoon located near the main ferry port of Puerto Villamil (where you will have, no doubt, arrived when you first get to Isabela).  It is accessed from a short elevated boardwalk through the mangroves. It eventually opens up to a beautiful lagoon where you can see sharks and rays and any number of fish and even birdlife.  

There is a current so be careful that you don't get swept to the volcanic rock.  There are ropes across in a few places that you can grab onto if you find yourself getting swept away.  

On the far side of the lagoon is a deep channel that is fun to snorkle through and it's teeming with fishes including the spotten eagle ray that we saw. 

Directly across from the Concha de Perla boardwalk trailhead is the Puerto Villamil Beach.  It's a small beach, but beautiful sand and you'll have the company of MANY sealions and marine iguanas.  And you'll often get an chance to swim with sealions, sea turtles and even penguins in the shallow water right off the shore, as we did the day we went. 

Isabela Island is a beautiful, laidback place with some good bars and restaurants - nothing too fancy although the prices will make you feel like they are - and plenty of nature and wildlife to see, both guided and unguided.  Renting bikes is a fun way to see the island.  You can rent them at many locations in town.