Fabulous Fez!

October 3-6, 2024

For as much as Chefchaouen's "Blue City" was a tourist city, Fez is decidedly not so.  Fez is the cultural capital of Morocco (and used to be the actual capital, which is now Rabat).  While there are, of course, numerous tourists wandering the medina and other attractions, it is clear that Fez is an actual city, with actual people who live and work there, not just a city set up to cater to tourists.  We're just popping in to catch a glipse of their world as they go about their business of buying, selling, praying, relaxing, etc. In that sense, it feels like a much more authentic experience. 

One of the dates to the medina

Fez's Medina (Old City) from one of the panaoramic viewing sites

One of the entrances to the Medina

Francesca got a tip for a local guy, Hamada Bouaz, who does transportation so we reached out to him for our transfer from Chefchauen to Fez.  Because of that good experience, we took him up on his offer to connect us with a private tour guide for Fez (he also ended up driving us from Fez to Rabat - great guy!).  Given we didn't have a car and the kids can only walk so much in a day without the wheels coming off, we signed up with Rachid Dyane who provided a superb day tour of Fez.  

One of the gates to the medina

Rachid posing with the kids at the Royal Palace doors

Royal Palace.  Where the king stays when he comes from his main palace in Rabat.

Cool Arabic writing. It says something about the grace of god, Allah.

Honestly, as previously mentioned, we don't typically like tours because they are often overly long with too much information which is can get tedious, especially if you are with young children.  But Rachid's tour was the perfect mix of information and fun.  And he also was very flexible with what we wanted to do and see - something you are able to do with a private tour.

Mounted police at one of the old city wall towers

Jnane Sibl Garden

Just inside the medina from one of the entry gates.

Family Jahns in front of one of the 7 giant doors of the Royal Palace.

The Jewish Quarter.  Many jews came to northern Morocco to escape persecution from Spain and other European countries.

It was also a very efficient tour with Rachid's driver dropping us off at one location and picking us up at the other side.  We never had to wait for transporation.  Rachid also gave us time to be on our own in the medina which was nice.  We had a decent, but overpriced, lunch at Restaurant Dar Alamia in the Medina while Rachid went to a nearby mosque to pray. 

Restaurant Dar Alamia - Fez

Moroccan "salad" - various spicy pickled vegetables

We dined on the rooftop terrace

Chicken pastilla - tradional Moroccan dish

Minced dumplings with tomato sauce and eggs

Set menu culture

View from the restaurant

Rachid did take us to various craftspeople's businesses (leather, pottery, carpets, etc.) - for which he, no doubt, receives a commission if we buy, but we never felt pressured and we were upfront with our limited abilty to purchase anything given our yearlong travels and luggage space restrictions. That said, we still felt badly for the vendors who showed us their wares to no avail.  

Its a messy job, but someone has to do it.

Ryan getting taught by a master pottery maker

Finley's turn

Phase II, painting and chipping

Some of the items hand made in this pottery barn

Spices galore!

Souk (market) within the medina (old city)

Carpet maker showing us his wares.

The fascinating Chouara Tannery

Some of the leather goods produced here

Scraping the leather hide to make the dye sink in

Our lodging, a Riad called Moun'Na, was located just outside of the famous Chouara Tannery - and therefore smelled of tanning dye.  But it was decidedly NOT in a touristy area and therefore we took advantage of night walks to the local markets and restaurants to, again, get a glimpse into the average Moroccan's life.  

Our room

Lobby where we ate our breakfasts

Girls knocking on the Riad door. Sometimes they would answer, sometimes not. :)

Narrow passageways behind our Riad

Night market behind our Riad

Locals gathering late night (10:30pm) in the town square

Waiting for tasty smoothies

Schwarma and Moroccan "tacos" at a local hole in the wall restaurant.

You could probably keep yourself busy for 3 or 4 days in Fez, but it's doable in 2 if you are happy just hitting the highlights, like us.  In fact, we saw so much on our tour the first day that we paid the somewhat steep day fee to use the pool facilities at the Fez Marriott.

Fez Marriott Hotel

Poolside dining!

It was a Saturday late morning (turnover day) so guests had either checked out already or not checked in yet so we had the place to ourselves. It got more crowded as the afternoon wore on.

 Next we were on to a small town near the capital of Rabat for a week long work/stay on an organic farm.  There promises to be lots of animals which the kids are excited about. 

The road approaching Fez from Chefchaouen

Random town on the road to Fez