A Gelato-Fueled Adventure in CHANIA, CRETE

June 28, 2024


Two Days in Chania, Crete: A Gelato-Fueled Adventure in the Venetian Maze

Ah, Chania! The sun-drenched gem of Crete, where history whispers through the narrow alleyways and gelato shops beckon at every corner. The Roamers (I am still trying to make that work) embarked on a whirlwind two-day adventure, finding ourselves tucked away in the cozy charm of Hotel Nostos. Nestled in an alleyway of the old Venetian city, this hotel was our perfect hideaway, a starting point for what would become an unforgettable journey.

Day 1: Gelato, Gyros, and Getting Lost (On Purpose)

Exploring the Venetian Labyrinth

Chania's old town is a labyrinthine wonder, a tangled mess of narrow passageways that make getting lost an art form. Armed with a map that might as well have been in ancient Greek, we set off to explore. Every twist and turn revealed charming shops, inviting cafés, and hidden courtyards. We quickly learned that the best way to navigate was to simply follow our noses—and our noses led us straight to gelato.

The Great Gelato Quest

Gelato shops in Chania are as common as olives in Greece. It seemed like every few steps, another brightly colored sign would lure us in. We didn't resist. Pistachio, stracciatella, lemon—each scoop was better than the last. By the end of the day, we were on a first-name basis with half the gelato vendors in town.  Really? No, not really.

Gyros on the Go

For dinner, we decided to sample one of Greece's most beloved street foods: the gyro. With its warm pita, succulent meat, fresh veggies, and creamy tzatziki, the gyro was a flavor explosion. It was our first taste, but certainly not our last.

Sunset Splendor and Nighttime Adventures

As the sun began to set, Chania transformed into a magical wonderland. The sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular, painting the sky with hues of orange, pink, and purple. We watched in awe, feeling incredibly lucky to be in such a beautiful place.

Once the sun dipped below the horizon, the city’s vibrant nightlife came alive. Bars, taverns, and cafés buzzed with energy. Whether you're a night owl or prefer quieter evening strolls, Chania offers something for everyone.

Day 2: Lighthouse Legends and Bougatsa Bliss

Bougatsa at Iordanis

Early in the morning, fueled by Jetlag and the munchies (no, not that kind) Ryan and I made our way to Iordanis, the legendary pastry shop just outside the old city and purchased their two varieties.  One was a more savory option and the other it sweet counterpart.  After practicing our thank you in Greek (“efharisto!”) we took our leave and met the girls up on our hotel balcony to feast. The bougatsa, billed as a heavenly combination of flaky pastry and sweet, creamy filling, was okay, but I’m not gonna lie, none of us were particularly in love with this pastry. But we do we know, we’re just Americans and we’re certainly not foodies. Although it wasn’t said, I think the kids all wished we were eating gelato instead.

The Lighthouse Trek

After breakfast, while the girls headed to the beach, Ryan and I embarked on the scenic walk to the Venetian lighthouse, a trek that spans about 2 kilometers from the old town. This iconic structure dates back to the 16th century and has seen everything from Venetian sailors to Ottoman invaders. It’s a beacon of history and beauty, offering panoramic views of the harbor that are well worth the walk. Plus, it's a great way to burn off some of that gelato.

Aegean Adventures

Post-lighthouse, we made our way to meet the girls at Koum Kapi, one of Chania’s stunning beaches. The crystal-clear, azure waters of the Aegean Sea were irresistible. We took a refreshing dip, marveling at how the sea seemed to sparkle even more brightly under the Cretan sun. Pro tip: there are no lounge chairs here and the beach itself is a thin strip so you can hang your towels and other belongings on nails sticking out of the cement wall backing the beach. Not sure if this was their original intended purpose, but everyone uses them this way.

Lunch at Aroma

Our beach adventure was followed by a late lunch at Aroma, a waterfront restaurant in the old town. The setting was perfect: gentle waves lapping against the shore, a light breeze, and the tantalizing aroma of fresh seafood. We indulged in a feast of local delicacies, savoring every bite.

Cheese Talk: Mizithra vs. Feta

When in Crete, don't ask for feta on your Greek salad. The locals and restaurateurs much prefer if you have their famous Mizithra cheese instead. Feta is from the mainland, and asking for it here is like going to Italy and ordering a burger. You might get one, but you'll also get a side of judgmental looks.  If I’m being honest, I wasn’t a big fan of the Mizithra, but then again, I am a huge Feta fan, so there’s that.

 Date Night

We felt the old city was safe enough to leave the kids on their own in the hotel – faces glued to ipads – and head out for a date night. For one thing, there are so many tourists and locals up until late that it would be challenging to pull off anything untoward without being seen.  Francesca and I strolled the alleys of the Venetian and Jewish Quarters while carrying our own bottle of wine.  We would stop on occasion at some outside tables of restaurants or cafes that were closed and people watch. It was nice to get a date night so soon in our journey, something I feared would be in short supply over the next 12 months.

Looking Ahead

In a month, we’ll be passing through Chania once more on our way to Athens. We’re already counting down the days, eager to dive back into the city’s enchanting mix of history, culture, and—of course—gelato. There’s so much more to explore, and we can't wait to see what new adventures await.

For more photos of Chania, CLICK HERE to be routed to the Chania PHOTO GALLERY.